I thought it was about time for another wee entry, this time, more of a general one. Nothing of great interest has happened of late, but though it might be nice just to give you a glimpse into the day to day life of a scottish girl living in Rwanda.
Trips off the base are far from boring and I try to get out 2 or 3 times a week just to keep myself sane. Although the base is nice, I can often feel confined here and just have to get out and see some different faces. A trip into mu muji (town) costs 20p on the Kigali Bus Service. A new addition to the public transport system since my time here last year. Very comfortable to be honest, keeping to the one person per seat policy. It makes a nice change from the matatus (small van that carries 20 people in it) and gets me into the centre pretty swiftly. I am still practicing my patience with the buses and matatus however. The longest part of the journey is probably the first kilometre, where people stand at about five metre intervals along the road, causing the bus to stop every 20 seconds. It drives me crazy! And often leaves me muttering (mild) obscenities under my breath as they pile on one at a time. When we get moving, the journey is always a sight to take in. I never get tired of watching the vibrant world pass me by. Different smells, sounds and sights satisfy the senses each time.
When in town, my usual first place is a coffeeshop called Bourbon Coffee where amazing coffees are served. Way better than starbucks. All homegrown in different regions of Rwanda. And amazing banana loaf. There are a few branches in the city, one in the centre, one at the airport and one at the big MTN centre. I like being designated to do the airport pickups for students. And always leave early so I can sit and have a coffee first! It's always a nice wee escape and I've never had a bad coffee there! Have to say the apple pie is pretty special too! Made friends with a few of the staff who work there, and have had my cakes or snacks for free once or twice which is SO sweet. I always try and make a swift exit, as the friends I've made seem to be male, and tend to try to ask me out. So to avoid any awkward moments, I say my goodbyes and (subtly) bolt for the exit.
There are plenty of shops around the main town, and a market or two that are great for rooting around in. I'm trying to bring back presents that are a bit different this year and have found some rather delightful wee shops that have sweet things in them. Obviously can't write what I have bought as friends and family will read this and surprise will be spoiled. I often (well, every time I go into town) bump into a guy who sells stuff on the street…I couldn't escape him last year either. He has a (fake) diamond earring in and always insists that I need a map of Kigali, Rwanda or the world. Or at least a flag…or a postcard at least. Oh he is insufferable and he always seems to find me around town. God bless him.
When I was here last year, I have to admit, I was petrified about going into the busy maze of streets, in case I was mugged or worse, overcharged by the shopkeepers. It's true, it is harder to bargain around those kind of shops, as the women are usually quite bolshy, and not easily persuaded. I got into a bit of an argument once with one. I wanted a simple dress, just for church, plainish, and not expensive. Went into this one shop, and greeted the women inside (noting the £ signs that sprang up in their eyes as they took me in) and announced that I needed a dress. The main mama proceeded to show me 20 of the vilest dresses I have ever seen in my life. She became increasingly aggravated with me as I screwed my nose up at each one. We moved to the changed room where she dressed me (because I can't put a dress on myself) up in 4 or 5 more hideous numbers. At this point, I'd all but given up hope when the silver lining to the experience showed itself in a duckegg blue and tawny brown paisley number. It was by far the nicest thing I'd seen, and had a simple cut and style. I tried it on (heart sinking slightly when I saw there was a hole in the side) and was pleased with the appearance. It was smiles all round as I paraded around the shop in it and soaked up all of the coos of the inhabitants. Turning to the mama, I asked her the price, and nearly fainted when she said 20,000rwf (twenty quid!) WHAT?! Well, I was very displeased and told her I would NEVER pay that amount for it, she asked me how much I would pay, I said 3,000 to which she laughed and started telling the other woman what a crazy muzungu I was only paying this amount. Well, we continued to argue (in our own languages and a few french numbers thrown in for good measure) for another 5 minutes. I offered her 5,000 which is a fortune for what the dress was and she still was not having it. I then stomped out of the shop (disappointed when she didn't call me back) and sulked about my duckegg dress for the rest of the afternoon. However, this experience did not put me off these shops and I can say now I have made a lot of more successful purchases over the months I've been here. And enjoy taking a walk along the streets when I'm in town. Like I said, there is so much to take in.
I take motorbikes almost every time I go out. They are the fastest way to get around, lots of fun and usually safe(ish). I'm building up quite a collection of stories from the trips. Sometimes you get the slowest driver in Kigali, which is painful (especially now that it's rainy season and getting caught in the rain is just not nice). Or you get the crazy driver (who looks slightly high) and get home in a flash. It's times like this where I really claim God's protection over my life and try to think happy thoughts on the way home. I have to say I've done a lot of tutting, dramatic gasping, and the odd slap on the driver's arm when he's just gone a bit too far. I've had one guy who was following my friend on his bike on the way back to the base, who got a bit confused, and followed another bike, right off the road and down a steep dusty hill, which we then had to come back up, and I thought I was going to fall off the back. One guy ran out of petrol, so we freewheeled down the hill glided silently into the petrol station laughing our heads off. Plenty of times, we have only just made it to the petrol station and the engine just stops which is quite comical. One of the funny sights here is the driver pushing his bike along the road, and a woman (the passenger) storming along behind him on their way to the petrol station. Yeah, it's always fun on the motos, and although they are more expensive than the bus, they are still relatively cheap which is a bonus.
I think that's enough storytelling for just now, I'm running out of interesting words to use and also running out of wit to keep this entry amusing enough! Today it has rained all morning and there is a bit of a nip in the air, so the socks and flip flop combination is making an appearance. Have a sweet day wherever you are in the world...
Laters
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